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Regenerative Viticulture at Amber Valley Vineyard's

Barry Lewis • Jun 06, 2022

Regenerative Viticulture

The concept of regenerative viticulture is something that’s recently come across my radar and I’m glad it did. We’ve been growing vines in a particular way at Amber Valley Vineyards that I’ve kind of been struggling to describe. Yes we’re organic, no we don’t do biodynamic practices, yes we do zero tilling under the vines, no we don’t use copper based organic sprays, in fact we try not to spray, and so on. 


When I read about regenerative viticulture and the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation my interest was piqued. Could this be something that neatly and helpfully describes what we are doing in the vineyard? 


So reading on it seems we’ve been inadvertently practicing the principles behind regenerative viticulture in our vineyards for years now. So how did we get there? Initially we conventionally ploughed, rotovated and used herbicides those early years as we grappled with planting, establishing and growing our new and young vines. It always felt like a struggle, the more we battled the weeds, by spraying and chopping at the ground under the vines, because that’s what conventional wisdom told us we should be doing, the more we felt we were losing the battle of maintaining healthy vines and healthy soil. 


When I eventually accepted it’d be better and easier to just grow grass under the vines and shifted our methods to that aim everything got better quickly! In tandem we’ve been organic (not registered) for some years now we’ve even moved away from copper based treatments within that regime - we haven’t needed them as much since we switched, which I like to think isn’t coincidental. The vast majority of the varieties we’ve chosen (Piwis and hybrids) don’t need too much intervention anyway and this combined with healthier soils have, I hope, tipped the balance in our favour.


The idea of ensuring that we can maintain our vineyards in balance with better biodiversity, which in turn can benefit our vines is not just appealing but desirable. A healthy soil structure, with its own ecosystem of a healthy rhizosphere where nutrients are effectively and beneficially traded between plants and soil and where carbon is effectively sequestered is at the very heart of regenerative viticulture and regenerative farming generally. Above ground we’ve been rethinking the relationships between vines and the wider wild plant communities to encourage increased biodiversity and, again, increased benefits for our vines. 


Traditional or conventional viticulture is more or less a monoculture of vines, cultivated with disk weeders and tillers or sprayed with herbicides; sprayed with chemicals to control downy and powdery mildews or thrips and various other harmful bugs, and chemical fertilisers used to address nutrient deficiencies in the soil. In combination these chemicals effectively reduce the health of the soils, potentially weakening the vines natural defences. Organic and biodynamic techniques are better but still rely on cultivation under the vines, and may still see copper based products sprayed onto vines, which ultimately harms the soil ecosystem. Tilling soil, in any system of agriculture harms the soil structure, releases carbon, harms the soil ecosystem or rhizosphere, its microbe communities and even breaking up the mycorrhizae networks that trades minerals and other nutrients between plants. 


In hindsight that switch we made to stopping spraying and cultivating under the vines brought such rapid benefits for us and helped suppress canopy vigour without affecting fruit quality (in our Solaris canopy in particular) meant that we found we needed to worry less about fungal disease. We’ve also seen a reduction in pest pressures from the close proximity of the vineyards to un-mown wildflower areas, wildflower meadows and species rich hedgerows. We’re teeming with ladybirds for example.


We’ve even explored, successfully, using sheep in the vines to graze at the end of the season. Something we’d like to do more of in the future. The idea of turning chickens out also appeals but I’m not sure they’d last long with the healthy fox population we have locally. Thankfully we’ve the odd pheasant that can perform similar services.


Our only ‘artificial’ input, if you can even call it that is using alpaca poo under the vines, which can be applied directly on the soils and breaks down naturally as if by grazing animals and it is particularly suited to fruit growing as it’s lower in nitrogen whilst being high in potassium and phosphates. The added bonus is there are no seeds in alpaca manure. 


We’re this year trialling unmown aisles - and yes, we do mow within our vineyards, as it’s still important to reduce early season frost risk, the disease pressure that long damp grass can bring and to harness the warming of shorter grasses under vines. But we’re not too enthusiastic about total undervine management and so there’s always a diversity of grasses and wildflowers still visible in the vineyards throughout the growing season.


The point of regenerative viticulture is about ecological or biodiversity services offered and traded within a farming, or in our case a viticultural system. The better we can make those relationships and provide the right conditions to encourage them, then the better the potential benefits to our vines. Most critically vine and fruit health. It’s sound and based in science but is a far away from the intensification that enabled agriculture to feed a fast growing population in the last century or so and marks a sea-change in practice - as such it isn’t going to happen overnight but it is a method that’s gaining traction. We’re keen to show it can work, even here in the U.K.


Over the coming years we’ll work to adapt our methods to improve biodiversity and ensure a healthy soil ecosystem and to experiment, with things like particular cover crops, inter-vineyard grazing and rotating unmown aisles for longer periods (but not so long they become unmowable). We’ll see if we can improve on those ecosystem services within our vineyards. Hopefully we’ll see improved quality and yields with minimal ‘artificial’ inputs. Our own experience to date has been exciting and shows there’s a way to a much greener, biodiverse and mutually beneficial ecosystem within our vineyards that can sequester more carbon.


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by Barry Lewis 01 Jan, 2022
Pruning is underway in the vineyard’s and you can’t help but get a bit excited for the new season ahead. Pruning is the most essential job in the vineyard, in many ways the most costly and most necessary work, which can dictate the quantity, and more importantly, the quality of the crop in the following season. I t sets up the expectation of a hoped for season, of a frost free spring, a dry warm flowering period, a long decent summer with abundant sunshine, warmth and just enough rain and culminating in a long, balmy perfect ripening season. Then a clean, abundant and beautiful harvest is the great prize. Then we want the most perfect wine we can make as a consequence. Of course it rarely goes like this but it’s what we work for and pray for. Keep your fingers crossed for us! Every snip of the vine is carefully considered and works towards making a balanced vine to optimise it's potential. As you can imagine we generate huge quantities of vine clippings (they make great kindling) and it's hard and often cold work. We wait till the depths of winter so that the wood is fully ripened and no longer green. Soon will follow the process of tying-down the new seasons canes at a point when we hope the risk of spring frost has passed. Tour bookings are open on our website if you want to hear more about the trials and tribulations of growing vines in Derbyshire.
by Barry Lewis 01 Jan, 2022
The ancient Celtic tradition of Wassailing has roots as deep and old as even the very oldest apple trees in our most ancient orchards. Whilst today it is seen as a West Country tradition it was also very much a Midlands one, with well documented examples found in Lincolnshire that have been revived in recent years. In fact, anywhere that had orchards tended to have their own variation on the Wassailing theme. Derbyshire is no different and so we’re hoping we are reviving something that has long been forgotten. In folklore, mythology and religion the humble apple or apple trees have taken centre stage throughout the millennia – think of Adam and Eve for example. The humble apple has symbolised life and rebirth and it is this that has been placed centre stage where Wassailing is concerned. If you’ve ever visited a mature orchard during winter they can be mysterious places in the coiling mists, their often distorted boughs and trunks, encrusted with lichens and mosses and adorned with ethereal mistletoe, can seem otherworldly and special. Their centrality in the lives of the past as an important food source well into the winter months must have made them even more special. Wassailing, depending where in Britain you were, was often celebrated on what was known as ‘Old Twelvey night,’ 17th January, but in other parts it was celebrated around Christmas or New Year. In more modern times, the geographical spread of where this tradition has clung on perhaps better reflects the importance of apple growing and cider making in those places, with a particular focus on the West Country in the counties of Devon, Somerset, Herefordshire and Gloucestershire. The origins of Wassail though are far, far deeper and more rooted in Celtic pagan traditions, now Anglicised (but barely) and done mainly for fun but as with all superstitions like this, it maybe tinged with a sense of covering all bases to ensure a good season. Wassail is derived from the Anglo-Saxon waes haeil meaning 'to be healthy' and the aspects described below were designed to drive evil spirits from the orchard and to encourage a good and healthy crop in the coming season. The selection of a tree as the ‘Apple Tree Man’ who is feted as the guardian of the orchard and becomes the focus of the celebration or ceremony is key. We have one in our orchard that for some reason just stands out as the right choice. There then follows some variations on a theme of noisemaking with the clattering of pans, blowing of horns (and shotguns in older times!) and a torchlight or lamp light procession to surround the Apple Tree Man and the singing of a traditional Wassail song. In some orchards a tall, hooded horse skull leads the procession. Then cider is poured on the roots of Apple Tree Man and cider-soaked toast is hung on his branches by the orchard King and Queen, usually two local children are selected for this honour. A Wassailing cup or bowl is used to dip the toast before hanging in the trees. A wassailing bowl was often specially made from turned ash, maple or chestnut and kept especially for the purpose. We commissioned our own Wessington Wassailing Cup back in 2019 (from Shaun at Natural Earth Woodcrafts) and it is hand carved from a piece of locally grown and felled oak. We’re delighted to be leading the charge in Derbyshire for the revival of this fascinating and ancient rural tradition and making it a community event and hope that with a growing revival of orchards comes a revival of more wassails across the county that can really connect people with their orchard’s and their communities. In January 2022 we had the participation of T'Owd Man Morris, from Wirksworth (and they'll be returning in 2023), who added, colour, sound and spectacle to the event and made a Mari Lwyd for it, a horse skull that leads the procession. Central to a successful Wassail is having a good time, to make merry in the bleakest part of winter and maybe, just maybe, it might just do a little something to improve the crop for the following season. One thing a good wassailing perhaps can do is connect us all a little more closely to nature and the turning of the seasons. And that’s no bad thing. We're holding our 4th Annual Wessington Wassail on 28th January 2023. For more information and to book click here. All the photos shown here in this post are of past Wassails at our orchard in Wessington, and show a true flavour of what our event is like. That is to say, rather extraordinary. We're also listed in Tradfolk , the website that celebrates traditional folk culture. You can find us as the only listing in Derbyshire at this time just here .
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